Paynes Ford: New Zealand Recent new climbs

Pohara : Deep Throat -New routes

2011-08-28T18:27:00.003+12:00

Clunge 26/27

F.A Troy Stevenson 10/11

On the large block on the other side of the Deep Throat gully from Fate Smiled/Destiny laughed.

Left line on the wall with 4 bolts shares the last bolt of Muffin Man and the same anchors

Ode to the Muffin Man 22

Craig Alter 8/2011

On the large block on the other side of the Deep Throat gully from Fate Smiled/Destiny laughed.

Small overhanging red wall. This is the line on the right.

Starts slightly right of first bolt. 4 bolts and chain. excellent rock better than most in that area.

Old news but good news

2011-02-02T21:53:00.000+13:00

Willie Butler’s seat home after aquatic escapade

Thursday 11 December 2008

Willie's son Patrick and dog Chewy. Photo: Supplied.

The Willie Butler memorial seat has been to sea.
The wooden seat was commissioned at the time of Willie's death in 2003 by the families of some young climbers who had been coached by the Hangdog Camp owner, rockclimber, and well-loved local personality. More recently it had been placed at a high vantage point on an island in the Takaka River near Paynes Ford, but the seat washed away in the recent flooding.
Celia Butler explained how the seat went missing and found its way home.
"Sarah Sherratt was filming the flood from the Kotinga Bridge and she noticed the seat being swept by. She let me know and I decided to put a ‘lost' ad in The GB Weekly. The very next day, even before The Weekly came out, the seat turned up on the back of a truck. Somebody had pulled it out of the sea at Pohara. It had obviously been swept out into the Bay and then been washed up. I was really glad to see it back in surprisingly good order. The commemorative plaque has come off but the seat's in Hangdog Camp just at the moment so we'll have to think about where to put it.
"It used to be really high up on the island. It just shows how ferocious the floodwaters were. I think it was because the Waingaro was so high. When it met the Takaka River there must have been an amazing amount of water."
Brian Cooper from Weka Arts at Kaituna made the memorial seat and was also relieved to hear that it had come home.
"Willie would have loved this story," he said. "Knowing him he probably organised it."
Neil Wilson

Thursday 11 December 2008

Paynes Ford in Flood 28 Dec 2010

2011-01-01T15:50:00.000+13:00

Pohara New Climbs

2010-09-25T18:49:00.002+12:00

The Corner Store
Obvious open corner at the corner after you pass the Twilight Zone and before the Bo Peep Slab. A track has been cut and heads up from the corner

Left hand side - Open for Business (18) 4 bolts and chain Approx 15m,starts under the over hang then follow the crack.Continuous with a bit of everything.

Right hand side - Who ate all the pies (15) 5 bolts and chain.Approx 15m,Belay bolt at the bottom of the route.Nicely spaced bolts with good clipping holds.

Karl Reece and Ash Whitehead 2010

Some Guidebooks available

2010-08-18T14:54:00.003+12:00

A box of 54 Guidebooks has been discovered in the basement ( I mean Kesters Office)of the NZAC

These are the only available copies of the original edition Golden Bay Climbs. It will not be republished for a while so get in quick.

Available from the NZAC

http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/golden-bay-climbs

SOLD OUT again....

Hangdog Closed for maintainence till November

2010-05-30T21:06:00.000+12:00

Sadly, Hangdog Camp is currently closed for the 2010 winter period.

We have a few maintenance issues to work over, and holidays to take, places to go, and people to see.

We will be re-opening nearer the summer, so check back around November and we should hopefully be all go

Temporary Closure of Sea Cliffs from Seagrass Wall through to Why Wall

2010-05-07T21:33:00.002+12:00

Temporary Closure of Sea Cliffs from Seagrass Wall through to Why Wall

Recently, the quarry has been excavating the rock at the top of these cliffs. This has resulted
in some rock fall in the area of Rumpy Pumpy. At this stage there are number of loose rocks
on top of the cliff and on ledges, making this a very hazardous area to enter. The land owner
is in the process of stabilizing the rock and making the area safe again, however this work
may result in further rock fall down the cliffs. Until this has been completed, all of this area is
closed. This includes Seagrass Wall, Franklins Tower, Black Vegetable Wall, Rumpy Pumpy, As Good as It Gets, Why and Nipple Rock.

It is OK to climb at Bo Peep, but do so with caution.
If it looks like work is taking place on the cliffs, or you are asked to leave, please do so.The land is privately owned - including the road.

Hangdog Closure? - Petition the Council

2010-05-06T13:13:00.000+12:00

Greetings to all climbers:

The climbers campground of Hangdog, near Takaka, New Zealand, has today been closed until further notice - ostensibly for maintenance, but the actual reason being non-compliance with standard council campground regulations. These regulations are aimed at the likes of Top 10 holiday parks, and include requirements such as having to provide a washing machine and individually marked campsites. In the past, Hangdog has had an exemption from these regulation, for its specific climbing-based purpose and clientele. This exemption has however expired, and the local council will not renew it as it sees no further need for this type of campground.

If you have stayed at this campground, were happy with what you found and the way it operated, and if you want it to continue, please send your thoughts to the Tasman Distric Council.

Attached is my attempted petition letter for the continuation of the Hangdog. Feel free to add your own comments or to write your own letter entirely - as it will be good for the Tasman District Council to hear all of your views! :)

I have included both TDC's Takaka and Richmond (Head Office) addresses, in order to cover both ends.

Feel free to pass on this template, and any additional thoughts, to your climbing friends around the globe.

Warm regards to everyone

Henry

Henriette Beikirch
E: henriette_beikirch@yahoo.co.nz
M: (+)64 (0)21 1146 122

-------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------

TO:

Tasman District Council
189 Queen Street
Private Bag 4
Richmond
Nelson 7050
NEW ZEALAND

Tasman District Council
78 Commercial Street
PO Box 74
Takaka 7142
NEW ZEALAND

Email: info@tasman.govt.nz

RE: Hangdog Campground for Climbers, Takaka

Dear Madam/Sir

It has come to my attention that the campground of Hangdog, near Takaka, is being closed due to maintenance, or more specifically, because of non-compliance with council campground regulations. Apparently, requirements include hot water and a washing machine, neither of which are currently being provided.

On several occasions, I have stayed at the Hangdog myself, as this campground is close to the well-known climbing crags at Paynes Ford. I have very much enjoyed the camp, and have found its guests to be courteous and environmentally aware. At no point in time did myself or any of my climbing friends express the need for more advanced facilities. Most of Hangdog’s clientele are climbers who are set up for camping in a tent or out of a vehicle, which includes cooking facilities. Hot water is therefore not an issue. For those not set up for camping, the existing bunkhouse provides beds, cooking facilities, hot water, and a shower. Most guests visit the township of Takaka on a regular basis to do their grocery shopping and to check emails, which is when they do their washing at one of the various laundry services provided. This also brings more business into town centre.

I personally feel that for Hangdog’s clientele, who are climbers from New Zealand and all over the world, more advanced facilities are neither wanted nor needed. We are used to simple life close to nature. We strive to live in harmony with our surroundings and aim to leave places as we found them. In the case of an organised campground, potable water and toilet facilities are sufficient to keep it sanitary. Dishwashing sinks, fridges and a hot shower (which are all currently provided at Hangdog) are excellent and a bonus. As climbers, a lot of us have vast outdoors experience, which includes the concept of minimal environmental footprint, and living healthily with few of modern life’s luxuries. We are responsible for our own cleanliness. It could even be argued that with communal cooking and washing areas, fewer facilities are in fact more sanitary, as everyone will be self-contained, so there is less potential for spreading germs. Climbers and
outdoors people are very self-reliant - we simply do not require the daily use of freely available hot water or washing machines to live healthily, or to be happy.

What is more, having these additional facilities is not desirable for us as they tend to increase the cost of running a camp, and therefore the cost to us, its patrons. We are used to travelling on budget with minimal facilities and expenditure. For climbers in particular, it is important to be able to stay for some length of time (and therefore, at affordable rates), in order to progress in our climbing aspirations and achievements. Expertise takes time. A basic and affordable campground with a friendly, supportive and environmentally responsible culture, such as the Hangdog, perfect fits our needs.

I am aware of the existence of basic Department of Conservation campgrounds, which often only provide toilets and cold water. As these campgrounds exist, they are obviously deemed sanitary enough to be safe and legal. Does this type of facility have to be limited to conservation estates? These basic campgrounds, much like Hangdog, cater for travellers who are self-reliant and happy with the simple life. Most holiday parks aim at a different clientele: travellers who are more used to having all the facilities of modern living, and often families and more mature patrons. While there is a need for these high-end campgrounds, there is also an obvious need (as evidenced by the occurence of “freedom camping”) for more basic campsites – as both campground philosophies represent different groups of travellers who visit New Zealand. For both groups, New Zealand is an attractive tourist destination (or they wouldn’t come all this way to visit!) – and
this is especially true for adventurous and “outdoorsy” people, who love the activities this country has to offer. Both groups of visitors should therefore be provided with facilities appropriate to each target group. The District Council may want to liaise with the Department of Conservation on this, in order to create a more encompassing philosophy and matching guidelines.

In the case of the Hangdog, I believe this is a speciality case of a campground aimed at rock climbers, who have a strong sense of environmental awareness, mutual trust and respect, and world-wide climbing fraternity. Hangdog’s location is ideal in respect to Payne’s Ford; the facilities provided are sufficient for climbers’ needs. By being climber specific, this camp is working very well as is. It exudes a wonderful sense of companionship and harmony. Turning it into a standard holiday park would destroy an absolute gem. I therefore urge the Tasman District Council to reconsider its stance, and to introduce an exemption for Hangdog from the current generic campground regulations, as this type of camp is exactly what Hangdog’s clientele are happy with and looking for. I very much hope that the Tasman District Council will be responsive to climbing tourism, which is an outdoor adventure activity this area is well known for internationally, by
supporting a minimal facilities campground which enables rock climbing.

Please feel free to contact me if you require additional information, or confirmation of any of the above.

Sincerely yours

***NAME AND ADDRESS***

DOC Report on Paynes Ford 2009

2010-02-25T09:42:00.004+13:00

A copy of this report can be seen here

Since this was produced there have been on going communications between Golden Bay Climbers and DoC.

All climbs at the North End have been removed. This is now CLOSED
Gobble Gobble Yum Yum at the Rhinoceros wall has been removed.
Plans for a Toilet by Track 5 are in process.
A cycleway project from the Paynes Ford carpark to EastTakaka is underway. This is not a DoC project but a local initiative
Tape has been used to direct traffic in some high use areas

Fish Wall - New Route

2010-01-06T12:43:00.001+13:00

Kristen Foley finished his long term project bolted several years ago to the R of System of the Down on the far R of the Fish Wall as yet unnamed it is about 25 and 4 B

Pohara - Twilight Zone

2009-12-22T10:57:00.001+13:00

Three headed Devil dog (23) 7 bolts Craig Alter Dec 2009
Starts to the R of Taonga at the entrance to the zone and shares its last 2 bolts

Persian Princess (20) 10m R of Going going gone Troy Dec '09

Jericho (21) - Stone Symposium Wall

2009-11-21T17:22:00.002+13:00

Jericho (21) 9 bolts This line starts up Temples of Stone (actually ToS starts up Jericho) and continues up parallel and left of this route and through the upper bulge. Originally done with a mix of so-so natural pro by Pete Hunt in 1991 and seldom repeated has recently been retrobolted but still has the sporting aspect. It should be popular.

Mountain Film Festival Takaka Oct 5th-6th

2009-10-04T14:32:00.004+13:00

Hi people, just a reminder that the NZ Mountain Film Festival is being shown in the village theatre next Mon / Tues nights (5th and 6th October) (same screenings both nights). If there is any profit, it will be split between NZ Alpine Club and Golden Bay Climbers, so encourage everyone you know to come along! We will be showing 5 films, from 10 minutes to 65 minutes. There are three NZ Films - South Wye, Lost Tower (NZs on the North Patagonian Icecap) and Kayaking the Nevis. This is followed by Acopan (Stefan Glowacz climbing a tower in the Venezuelan jungle) and Azazel (French climbers on Trango Tower, Pakistan). Should be a good evening! Click here for Takaka shows on the title for Theatre details or here for later events throughout the country Golden Bay Climbers

Pohara - Seagrass Wall - X Factor

2009-05-15T14:01:00.003+12:00

*X Factor. 19 or 20. 5 bolts. Start about a metre right of HymenIce Girl. Climb directly up; fun climbing with a stiff little crux. Phil Castle 2/5/09

Sold out!!!

2009-02-24T06:07:00.005+13:00

I will not be able to publish another edition with all the updates and changes (closed areas, removed climbs etc) until Spring 2010

2009 Bo Peep Challenge

2009-01-05T11:23:00.005+13:00

Yes its on again, the 2009 Bo Peep Challenge. It's not about climbing as much as showing off your best party costumes. Get down and have some fun - previous events have drawn strange local fauna out of hiding Some post event pictures HERE - thanks Antoine....

Environmental stuff (2)

2008-08-26T12:19:00.004+12:00

Many moons ago the nice climbers of Nelson never gave Paynes Ford a second look. The cracks of Cable Bay and the Takaka Quarry were all the rage. Paynes was too steep, had no cracks for pro, less holds and was covered in moss and ferns anyway. Try to imagine what it was like back then. There were wekas in the reserve, lush, rare mosses were all over the cliffs and at their base, Supplejack wove the bush together, heaps of leaf litter was on the forest floor which each spring herbs and perennials would push through. Hippy girls used to swim naked at the swimming holes - they used to be so numerous that one could catch them with a butterfly net and have them poached on toast for breakfast. Alas, no more. Now Golden Bay seems to be the ‘place to be’ and it’s more than just climbers who think so. While we all love Golden Bay for our own reasons the place is in danger of being loved to death. While we may love the slopers that’ll suffice for holds in loving them we’ve killed off the drip line mosses, the ferns and compacted the soil at the base of the cliffs in our efforts to get a Paynes pump. There’s less obvious stuff too. Everywhere we walk we destroy the leaf litter, destroying plants and invertebrates in our path. We’ve cut back supplejack in the name of access and killed not so small trees that were either in our way, or by lowering off into them. So now it’s time for some truths. It doesn’t take much brain to work out that climbers can’t be serious environmentalists. Nylon ropes and all that fuel to get here, not to mention those flights overseas to climb. And what about all the fuel and energy that goes into making all that shiny gear that we love. So any efforts we put into keeping the crags of Golden Bay ‘nice’, green and native bushy, are, on the grand scale of things, trite nonsense! But wait I, and I’m sure a lot of you, love or will love this place and love is a strange thing. Totally illogical it is. So I ask you, I implore you to do that totally illogical, human oddity. I ask you to help preserve, improve and conserve this place. Here are some tips:

1. Keep to the established and often marked tracks. The good folks who care about the place are busy building small stone barriers around regenerating Kahikatea, Miro and Matai, please watch out for these. We don’t know where all these little beggars are so please keep your eyes open.
2. Minimize your impact at the bottom of the cliffs by keeping all your stuff in one compact place and not wandering back into the bush to see what the climbers doing or whatever. We’re hoping the undergrowth regenerates and there are heaps of orchids here that you’re trampling. This sort of impact is worst at the Creese and Little Lost Walls
3. Don’t walk to the tops of cliffs. In 1999 there was a very dry, hot summer and all the Hebes and Kowhai that lined the cliff tops died off. Little, wee ones are just starting to come away again and won’t benefit from little human feet trampling on top of them. Put top ropes up by leading routes or get some strong type to do it for you.
4. Clean tick marks and excess chalk off the cliff and holds. This stuff is visual litter and makes holds really greasy on hot days. Long may there be hot days.
5. No graffiti anywhere.
6. Please abseil from the top of cliffs rather than lower from the fixed anchors. This helps the hardware at the top last a lot longer. Running a top rope through the fixed anchors is about the worst thing you can do. Use a biner at the top instead.
7. The bolt fund and the folks who stick the stuff in the cliff can’t and don’t want to fix all your fixed anchor woes. Assessing whether bolts will stay put is your responsibility. You can help by carrying a spanner to do up loose bolts. Please don’t come sniveling to us if it all goes wrong.
8. Use the loo’s provided (DoC loos at Paynes, loo’s at the port of Tarakohe, public toilets behind the tennis club at Pohara, and the loo’s at Hangdog). No shitting in the woods, loo paper daisies or burning loo paper please.
9. Learn what banana passionfruit is and kill it by cutting the vine at its base.
10. Kill all possums and rats. If you’re new to this country, Possums aren’t cute, cuddly tree bears, they’re a noxious pest that consumes huge amounts of vegetation, young birds and eggs. The most effective way of killing them is by biting their nose off with your teeth! If you’re too spineless to do this then try pointing a small blond dog at the possum, she’ll do the biting for you.
11. There are some areas that local climbers have either agreed not to climb on or not develop to keep in harmony with the local non climbers. Check at Hangdog if you’ve spied some rock you want to be let loose at.
12. Give a little dosh to the bolt fund. It’s managed by an odd and only semi-organized but passionate bunch of volunteers who generally know what they’re doing.

Environmental stuff (1)

2008-08-26T12:03:00.001+12:00

Lets look after the place

Paynes Ford is a Scenic Reserve at which DoC tolerates our climbing. It is a privilege not a right to climb here. That privilege could be withdrawn.

This brings with it a responsibility to use and conserve the resource for others.

It is not the general public that wanders around the bottom of these cliffs it is climbers. If you are a recent visitor what “was” here might not be apparent.

Over the years there has been a lot of intentional and unintentional damage to native vegetation in particular, along with compaction of the soils around the base of the climbs and erosion on unofficial shortcut tracks. Drip-line mosses have almost all vanished. The bush is much more open now as our presence has forced back much of the native plants to meet our needs.

As numbers of climbers grows the pressure increases rapidly.

Thanks to all those climbers who are caring of our environment.

HOW CAN YOU HELP?

DON”T even think about putting up a new climb if it means removing/cleaning moss or vegetation as has been done recently.

It won’t get you mentioned (favourably) in the Guidebooks!

If you are doing a new climb don’t SQUEEZE. Many lines have been looked at and left alone in the past as not being independent.

Be careful of trees when you lower/rap off climbs and swing out.

Stick to marked tracks

Don’t climb with dirty rockshoes. Mud/dirt acts as a grinding paste and holds become polished. Carry a bit of carpet to stand on and to clean your shoes on. Routes will become polished like those on the Slave wall.

Pick up that bit of litter even if it is not yours.

Pohara - Why Wall - Just Cause (26)

2008-08-11T11:27:00.004+12:00

Just Cause (26)

Bit of an endurofest. Currently 10 bolts but it may finish lower. Starts up Animated Suspension then breaks right at the 4th bolt and then up via the rail at the top of Snatch, and on up through scroggly shit that falls off a lot currently finishing at the belay of Status Anxiety (18). Mark Brignole winter '08

Wall of Thugs - New climbs

2008-08-10T15:57:00.005+12:00

Head Line***26

Starts 3m right of Intensive Scare. Step off the very end of the ledge and head straight out across roof. 5B. "A definite contender for the most outrageous position at Paynes, wild moves on solid holds the whole way!" Recommend a back belay to Intensive Scare chain for more enjoyable climbing /belay experience. A 60m rope is essential to lower/abseil off the anchors. Rich Turner 8/7/08 photos Mark Brignole

Another night in the dogbox** 23

Starts as for Bicep d'Elan to first bolt then breaks right past undercling and straight up wall. Through the roof jam crack to finish on the Intensive Scare belay. Rich Turner 7/7/08

Tenuite Area - New climbs

2008-07-16T22:39:00.008+12:00

That's not my name* (24)

Starts R of the track to the Tenuite Wall. Good moves up the steepening wall, crimpers, then fun through the roof. 4 Bolts. (WHILE THIS WAS GRADED 24 SEVERAL LOCALS WHO HIKE 26 HAVE FAILED MISERABLY ON THIS ROUTE...) Michael Norman 8/08

Slap and Tickle** (23)

Starts R of Lapsed Catholics and keeps left of Romancing the Stone on the Lower Tenuite wall. 3 Bolts. Craig Alter 6/08

Persistence of time (25)

An extension of Grey Warbler on the Lower Tenuite wall. Move R and through the roof to the Badger Basin . 8 Bolts. Craig Alter 8/08

Stallywag ** (27)

Starts L of Chicken Hawk flaky start trends let through a line of pockets to the break and goes out through the roof via the stal and some wild foot free manoeuvres. 7 Bolts - top chains are just right of Bent Badgers Belay Rich Turner 5/08

Globe Wall -New Routes

2008-05-01T08:17:00.011+12:00

Windfall* (24)

Formerly known as Slapstick* this was a good but potentially serious route until a recent storm brought down the offending branch.Now it is a good route. It weaves its way up between Powerfailure and Body Nazi's . Go right at the last bolt, then back left to mantle, you can always step back to the branch if it gets out of control.5B . Tony Ward-Holmes 4/08

Overkill** (25)

From the Make My Day start moves right and continues to top of the crag - the only line here that climbs the upper wall.The break is a bit friable so make sure there's nobody in the drop zone. 8 Bolts. Tony Ward-Holmes 5/08

Recidivist* (20)

Starts R of Amino Pro start to the ledge then head straight up a shallow groove to finish left of the Grumpy Cat belay. 6 Bolts. Phil castle 4/08

Grade Comparisons table

2008-04-04T08:50:00.002+13:00

Some re-bolting

2008-02-05T19:04:00.001+13:00

While hanging around at the far end of the crag the lads have been doing a bit of work. So far:

Subliminal Seducer
Fish'n'chips

have been rebolted and plans are a foot for more ie Smells like Fish

Some easy kids routes at the Globe Wall

2008-01-15T12:00:00.001+13:00

There have been 3 easy routes put up for kids - two at the entrance to Tomorrow Gully opposite Fauvism and one to the R of The Fat Fight Back (8 bolts). They have been all climbed before but were thought to be good for those with kids starting climbing who also want to spend some time at the Globe Wall !! Good one Rich. Note: All 3 have been bolted for small people to lead (5years + ?? ) ie very close bolts. Tomorrow gully south side:

Beavis 6?

Flake crack (left hand line 3m left of entrance to Tomorrow Gully) 5B Jasper Carrot 11/07

Butthead 8??

Right hand line (just at entrance) up arete 5B Jasper Carrot 11/07 Between Cloudwalker wall and Electricorp Production right of The Fat fight back is

Greenday 10? 7B

Jasper Carrot 11/07 This was often soloed to get pictures of people on the Cloudwalker Wall

Pohara: Why Wall As good as it gets... (21)

2007-12-03T21:33:00.002+13:00

Mike McManaway on his (approx) 45th ascent of his favourite climb...he is now up to his 76th ascent (Feb '08) - JAN 09 Mike did his 101st ascent...

Creese Wall - New direct start to Re-election blues

2007-11-19T16:57:00.001+13:00

At the Creese Wall a visiting Brit added a direct start up the arete to join Re-election Blues (16). Following one of Hobies "stories" it was named "Why would you wave at a one armed man on a bicycle?"(25). It has 3 new bolts before joining the original route. 11/07

Paynes Ford, Stone Symposium Wall : Space Invader (20)

2007-11-13T08:48:00.000+13:00

Next time you are climbing around Temples of Stone you may notice some changes. The annoying bees nest right of Jimmy the torn piece .... has been eliminated and a new climb evolved, phoenix like, from the remains. The climb starts with a bouldery move off the ground, heads up into the crack moves delicately R and you will find yourself standing R of the pro placements on the bottom of R for Ranger, D for Danger continue up the wall left of Stone Symposium.This may also be an alternative start to R for Ranger, D for Danger with or without the Danger direct variation left of the arete from Jimmy. Confused? You have a right to be, however following the pinkish-brown hangers should make matters clearer. Space Invader (20) 10 bolts 30m Mike McManaway 2/07

Pohara Area Crags

2007-08-23T08:00:00.000+12:00

View Larger Map

Paynes Ford Location map (Google)

2007-08-23T07:09:00.001+12:00

View Larger Map

Why Wall Topo

2007-07-09T21:56:00.000+12:00

Paynes Photos

2007-05-16T06:40:00.000+12:00

I have started a Paynes Ford Group for Paynes Ford / Golden Bay climbing shots if anyone is interested on Flickr. here http://www.flickr.com/groups/paynes_ford_climbing/

Pohara: The Lair - Katipo (25)

2007-03-22T14:38:00.000+12:00

There is a new climb on the east end of the Lair at Pohara. This is around past the White Spider. It was put up by the lads from Mot. It is called Katipo, apparently has a very hard first clip, about 5 bolts and Grade 25? Craig Alter '07

North End - Big Black Spider (19)

2007-02-01T11:52:00.001+13:00

A trad line just R of Darling Buds of May. Starts just left of a big flowstone tufa thing, works up through flakes and into crack at the top.Rap from big tree set back and left. Matt Natti 20/2/06

Tech Tip: Retreating off a sport climb (Method 1)

2007-02-01T10:27:00.000+13:00

An Eco-Escape - Retreating off a route ….leaving nothing but memories… So you aren’t really the gun you thought you were. That pizza seems to be holding you back somehow. Tips are raw and there just isn’t the oomph in the arms that you need to pull through this first baffling crux. ….or maybe you are well up on that long multi pitch sport route in Chamonix dressed only in T shirt and shorts when the thunderstorm hits. So there is nothing for it but to back off, get back to the belay and get on down. The reasons may be many but the results the same. With a bit of forethought a couple of small pieces of gear can be utilized to leave nothing behind on that “sharp as” bolt bracket. What do you need? • A FiFi hook • A small steel maillion rapide (quick link?) - farm suppliers have these pretty cheap or a shackle • A 1/2 metre of “P” cord. • Abseil device... • Helmet !! What do you do? • Clip yourself into the hanger with your cows tail. • Hook the FiFi onto the hanger - ideally underneath the karabiner from your safety sling. • The p- cord should already be attached to the top of the FiFi. There is usually a small eye there. • Feed the rope through the rapide/shackle as per a normal abseil… you know equal amounts on each side. • On the side of the rope that is on the spine side of the Fi-Fi hook tie an overhand knot close to the top. The “P” cord should be hanging down on the side with the knot. • Attach the p- cord to this loop. You should have a slack loop of p-cord hanging around. • Put your belay device onto the rope and any back up prussick (if you use one). This next bit needs to be managed with some delicacy and finesse as you are hanging off a hook that could potentially come off if you started bouncing around a bit. • Ease your weight onto the rope, remove your safety and off you go. • When you get to the ground pull the side with the knot until the tension comes onto the the p-cord and the Fi-Fi pulls out. Watch out for the metal stuff flying down. Helmet useful here!!! The slack in the p-cord is to take up any creep that might occur with the rope. A steel rapide/shackle lasts better than an alloy one if you make a habit of this sort of trick. This method is less effective on steep sport routes that need to be cleaned as well as retreated from. Obviously carrying a bail ‘biner helps as you can leave it behind (once) or a shackle or some tat are other options but they are all things that are left behind as even more trash for someone else to deal with.

Tenuite Wall Topo

2007-01-15T20:18:00.000+13:00

Overgraded/Undergraded - your views

2006-11-27T09:56:00.000+13:00

One thing you always hear at the crag is about grades. It really is about consensus but imagine if we didn't have that debate... So are there climbs here in Golden Bay that you think are just plain wrong. Overgraded/undergraded. If you make a comment I think it is important to look at other climbs in the same grade and consider if it is much harder than and comment accordingly...etc etc . Also as regard what might be the benchmark climbs in a Grade bracket. Eg Temples of Stone is probably the benchmark 18 at Paynes given that, probably Fat Cats (19) on the Tenuite is overgraded. I certainly find it easier to climb than Stone Symposium (18 version). Feel free to comment There are some other comments here on Mojozone.

Bo Peep Slab: Honour and Obey (21)

2006-11-21T09:57:00.000+13:00

Honour and Obey 21 4B Chris Burtenshaw 11/06 This new line on the left of the wall heads directly up the faint groove right of the first bulge of Coup de Grace (which heads up and left) and has a tricky hidden hold towards the top. Another good addition to the wall by the climber formerly known as Lizzard.

Paynes Ford: Stone Symposium Wall - Danger Direct a R for Ranger variation (21)

2006-10-09T14:11:00.001+13:00

With the addition of one bolt above the ledge above "Jimmy the torn piece of paper..." on the left of the arête a quality link up has been made between "Jimmy the torn piece of paper..." and the classic "R for Ranger ,D for Danger". The original link up between these two routes avoided the slightly scarier original start to "R for Ranger , D for Danger", by moving up from the top of "Jimmy..." , to the new bolt, climbing the wall just R of Temples of Stone till moving back R onto the arete as for the original line. This allows one to climb this without needing placed protection.

Mike McManaway on the new link up. Photo Phil Castle

There is some debate as to whether the extra 3-4 m of new climbing warrants a name... but Mike is calling it Danger direct.Some people feel that there is a dangerous fall potential before you clip the first runner on R for Ranger. Anyway this variation was climbed by Mike McManaway and is given *** and Grade 21 for the whole link. 7B. FA Sept/06

Paynes Ford, Globe Wall - Power Line*** 23

2006-07-11T05:53:00.000+12:00

Phil Castle has added a new classic to the Superconductor area. Power Line climbs the wall between Send a Gorilla and Feral Pakeha to the top of the crag (the probable original Send a Gorilla finish). He says that despite the name it is a stamina climb not a power climb. The crux is low down then its hang on for the duration... 9 Bolts. FA 8/7/2006

Paynes Ford, Tenuite Wall - Walk the Line 20*

2006-05-20T18:25:00.000+12:00

Walk the Line is a 4 bolt direct line just left of a yellow streak between Headplant (21) and Loose Unit (20) on the classic Tenuite Wall. The first clip is currently a bit "goey" but is off a small positive crimp. Simon Middlemass 8/5/06

Paynes Ford,Tenuite Wall - A Shout towards noon.- Redirected

2006-05-14T13:49:00.000+12:00

This is/was one of the easy routes on the Tenuite Wall, climbing the short wall off the end of the ledge and heading left up the ramp to the final bulge. This bulge was always the crux and climbed the steep ground R of the last bolt. Since a large amount of loose rock was cleared off the end of the break near the top of "Go with the Flow" most people use this easier less committing finish - which probably puts this route around Grade 13? Recently the start was redirected up the wall R of "Fat Cats" past 2 bolts to join the ramp by the 2nd bolt on the original route. It is a little steeper and more fun Grade? 15?4B

In Memory of Floppy

2005-12-20T06:52:00.000+13:00

The infamous Floppy, longtime resident of Hangdog Camp (Paynes Ford) enjoying a Christmas recovering from yet another dice with death. Unfortunately Floppy passed away after yet another accident about a year ago.

Photo: Lizzard

The Fortress: Tourettes Syndrome 21

2005-12-20T06:40:00.000+13:00

A climb with a chequered past. A visiting Spaniard claimed he put up the F.A but this was disputed by some who were there so Gomez lead a night assault (amidst spiders and creepy crawlies). Comments involved how dirty and uncleaned it was and that no one could have climbed it as it was. So who gets the F.A? At least Gomez named it something we could understand. Left of The Infidel on the bottom of the Fortress. Gomez 1/05

Bo Peep Challenge Climbing Competition Jan 7th

2005-12-19T21:01:00.000+13:00

Click on the picture for a larger view: Local Golden Bay Climbers have decided to provide some summer fun with a casual climbing competition at the Bo Peep Slab on Jan 7th. See the poster for details but fancy dress is encouraged as is bribing the judges. It will probably be followed by an typically outrageous Golden Bay style party

Cobb Valley: Introduction

2005-12-19T09:00:00.000+13:00

Cobb Valley: Iron Hill Area

2005-12-19T08:59:00.000+13:00

Cobb Valley: Iron Hill - Moonflower Wall

2005-12-19T08:58:00.000+13:00

Cobb Valley: Iron Hill - Guiltoline Wall

2005-12-19T08:57:00.000+13:00

Cobb Valley: Iron Hill - Brain Wall

2005-12-19T08:56:00.000+13:00

Cobb Valley: Lake Sylvester overview

2005-12-19T08:55:00.000+13:00

Cobb Valley - Lake Sylvester - Bollywood Wall

2005-12-19T08:54:00.000+13:00

Cobb Valley - Lake Sylvester - Wailing Wall

2005-12-19T08:31:00.000+13:00

Pohara: Trench Town - The Prow

2005-11-16T07:07:00.000+13:00

Photo: Britta Steude The Prow (21) 5B 15m About 30m towards Tarakohe (left) of the main routes at Trench Town is a separate buttress easily seen and accessed from the pullout near the corner.Phil has continued his fascination with steep,juggy Grade 21 aretes to put this up. He reckons 2 stars. Phil Castle 15/11/05

Pohara: Trench Town

2005-10-15T16:49:00.000+13:00

Say no to jugs (19) 4B 10m Trench Town lurks relatively quietly not far from the Seagrass Wall and is home to a few small climbs with some good moves.This short fun routes slips into the steep ground immediately right of Miss precocious tongue at the top of the gully and left of Ooggaa Chakka. Underclinging the small roof using a series of stalactities is a highlight. Phil reckons it's worth 1 star. Phil Castle 15/10/05 Mark Brignole says no to jugs. Photo : Phil Castle There is a new route (21),'07 that heads through the roof between Oooga Chakka and Soul Shakedown Party. It is identified by a large area of removed rock near the bolt at the roof. Soul Shakedown Party (22) 4B Right of Oogga Chakka. Start part way up the small gully—boulder to a high first bolt then up to the roof crux. Mark Brignole 29/12/04. Kaya (19) 4B Right -most line and the first you come to. Start on some slightly dubious rock at the bottom of the gully. Things steepen to a final groove. 4B and fixed thread. Simon Middlemass 29/12/04

Pohara: Why Wall - Why not?

2005-09-26T13:29:00.000+12:00

Mark Brignole on his new route Why not? Why not? (26) 6B 15m If you were confused on where the routes go, there is now another variation to confuse you. Takes the first 3 bolts of Why? then blasts up the headwall to the left of the original route past another 3 bolts. Mark Brignole 25/9/05

Pohara: Why Wall - Animated Suspension

2005-09-26T13:26:00.000+12:00

Bruce Dowrick on Animated Suspension Photo: Mark Brignole Animated Suspension (26) 6B 15m Another Rich Turner special.From the first bolt of Why? - just right of the arete route As good as it gets (21), diagonal right, crossing two cruxy roofs then up to the big scoop. Richard Turner 25/8/04.

Pohara: Why Wall - Snatch/Animated Snatch

2005-09-26T13:25:00.000+12:00

Climber at the crux roof on Snatch (25) Photo : Mark Brignole. Snatch (25) 7B 15m The route referred to as Project (24) in the downloadable PDF update to Golden Bay Climbs. Why wall is the steep wall left of the Bo-Peep slab bounded by As good as it gets (21) on the left and In your face (21) on the right. Starts up bolts left of In your face (on the right of the wall) then moves left at the first roof. Mark Brignole 26/12/04 Animated Snatch (26) 7B 15m Starts up Snatch for its first 5B then joins the last two bolts of Animated Suspension to include the cruxes of both. Mark Brignole In your face (21) 6B 15m Up the right edge of the Why wall and left of the arete. Start below and left of the Cracking up/Status anxiety ramp. Steep and juggy.Continue slightly left and up to the belay. Phil Castle 18/8/04

Pohara: Bo-Peep Slab

2005-09-26T13:24:00.000+12:00

Status Anxiety (18) 7B 15m Supercedes Cracking up (16). Diagonal left leaning crack and ramp on left of the overhanging wall (Bo Peep Slab).Cracking Up was originally a natural pro route but is now bolted (with permission) and extended to give an 'out there' expedition. We recommend having someone second it to clean it. Phil Castle 8/04 Britta Steude on Status Anxiety. Red Tape (24) From near the start of Supercharger, diagonals right. A route with a chequered history on the right of the wall. Originally a project of Lizzard’s, given to Mark B and usurped by Rich T on Mark’s birthday. Rich Turner 30/7/04 Absconsionism (25) 3B Fun, fingery and steep. The short snappy line on far right of the wall. Rich Turner 6/05

Paynes Ford: Creese Wall

2005-09-19T17:10:00.000+12:00

Golden Years (14) 5B, 13m At the left hand end of the Creese wall (top of Track 1) is the classic Goodbye Cream Poofters (17). Just right is a chimney and right of this Re-election blues. Start as for Re-election blues in the scoop but instead of moving left continue up the easy arete. Phil Castle 14/6/05

Pohara: Shagadelic Buttress

2005-09-19T13:20:00.000+12:00

Access: Drive to Pohara and continue past the Port (Tarakohe) through the tunnel and past the Cathedral Wall. At the top of the hill is the Abel Tasman monument.Take the left (western) entrance track to the Abel Tasman monument. After the zig zags a small track drops down on left (just before a tree root crosses the path). To get to the bottom beach turn left at the bottom of the access track, follow blue markers left then drop down through a small gully with a fixed rope. To get to the top of IMM. (High water access). At the bottom of the rough track follow blue marker tape initially right. A anchor (over edge) allows a rap to the main anchor, clip rope through runners on way down so you can pull through and not drop it into the sea. AT ANYTHING OTHER THAN ABOUT 1.5 hrs EITHER SIDE OF LOW TIDE YOU WILL NEED TO RAP IN FROM THE TOP OF THE CLIFF TO A HANGING BELAY ON INTERNATIONAL MAN OF MYSTERY. Fancy a shag on the beach (22) 6B 14m. Boldly up overhanging scoop on left of the main wall then through bulges. Tricky move right to anchor at top. Mark Brignole 19/2/04 The Shag who spied me (21) 5B 15m Start on diagonal ramp from left to the line that follows the yellow/gray rock boundary on the centre/left of the wall. Crux at the top. Can start via I.M.M also. Phil Castle 8/2/04 International man of mystery (19) 10B 22m From the beach at obvious jug handle and glue in bolt up to the high tide belay then right. Crux low down then lotsa holds. There is another anchor a few metres higher if you want to top out. Simon Middlemass 9/2/04 A date with Felicity Shagwell (18) 7B 20m Pull through steep bulge then move right up easier ground on to a slightly 'out there' finish. . Simon Middlemass 19/2/04 More rad than trad (20) 3B 10m Takes the overhanging wall on the western end of the beach, adjacent to the main wall. Phil Castle 24/6/05 Download PDF from here: http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225

Pohara: The Lair

2005-09-18T17:05:00.000+12:00

A fairly dark and gloomy spot that has the honour of probably being the closest climbs to a cafe that I can think of in NZ. The "Penguin" cafe at Pohara and the nearby store should provide all the sustainance that one requires. The Lair is located about 150m past the "Penguin" when heading to the main climbing areas from Poara near the band rotunda. It is the large block on the hill side of the road. The slab above the road has been climbed but should be left alone due to proximity to the road. Rich Turner on second ascent of the White Spider Redback (16) 6B Starts up the steep wall at the Pohara (west) end of the boulder right next to the road. Follows the arête in the upper sections. Try and not drop rocks on the road. Mark Brignole 1/04 White Spider (25) 6B Overhanging back wall.Head up the dark gully and it is up on your left. Climb up onto the block opposite (access up rata vine corner on far side). Lean across to clip the first bolt. It seems to work best if you put a long draw on the 2nd bolt and unclip the first. Lunge left to a big hole at the top. Steep with some great moves. Mark Brignole 1/04

Pohara: Huntley and Palmers wafer

2005-09-12T18:40:00.000+12:00

It is what it is (20) 3B The new, left most, route on the Wafer. Short with good cruxy moves. Mike McManaway 9/9/05

Pohara: Huntley and Palmers wafer area

2005-09-11T20:07:00.001+12:00

Harry Pothead gets the philosophers stoned (17) 6B 12m Drive past Cathedral Rock at Pohara towards the Abel Tasman Monument. A small buttress of rock rises from the left and terminates level with the A.T carpark. Climb is on the north side of this rock. Access is down bank on the Huntley and Palmers wafer side (it is about 100m from H& P). slightly steep with big holds. Simon Middlemass 26/12/04

Sandhills Creek

2005-09-10T19:00:00.000+12:00

Free Radicals (23) 9B 20m

Past Shadows at Sunset the cliff does a right-hand turn to the left. This is the Amazing Technicolour Dream wall. At the right end of this wall is a left-facing corner. Free Radical starts at the left side of this and goes straight up. Deceptively overhanging (4 to 5 metres). Phil Castle and Mark Brignole 15 Feb 2005 http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/sandhills-creek For more photos of the Sandhills Creek area see Phil Castles pictures here: http://www.cardett.co.nz/crag/index.html

Cobb Valley: New climbs

2005-09-10T18:48:00.000+12:00

A downloadable PDF of some of the new climbs done recently up the Cobb Valley, Upper Takaka. Includes Lake Sylvester and Iron Hills. Itis an work in progress http://www.rebirthresoles.co.nz/index.htm

Paynes Ford: Globe Wall

2005-09-09T19:18:00.000+12:00

Unforgiven (30) The old Ivan Vostinar project on page 64. A direct line left of the corner to The Killing Time belay and avoiding any holds on The Killing Time Sebastian Loewensteijn 9/1/04 The Killing Time (Extension) (28) 6B From the Killing Time belay head directly right and up to the top of the wall. Originally climbed by Nick Sutter in ‘94 at 26? Subsequently a hold is rumoured to have come off making it harder. Nick Sutter ‘94 Sebastian Loewensteijn 1/04 Monkey Master (28/9) Immediately right of the corner. Start on the wall with a medium cam to protect the start, tackles the crux roof on the left. Way hard if you are short.Continue to the top. Sebastian Loewensteijn 12/04.

Pohara: Trench Town

2005-09-09T19:10:00.000+12:00

Walk along the road towards Port Tarakohe from the left end of the Seagrass Wall (see map) about 50 metres. At the huge yellow overhang over the road scramble up the bank and follow the cliff north for approx 100m until you come to a small gully between the cliff and a detached block. There is some interesting red rock and stalactites here.These two climbs are right of the existing two in Golden Bay Climbs. Soul Shakedown Party (22) 4B Right of Oogga Chakka. Start part way up the small gully—boulder to a high first bolt then up to the roof crux. Mark Brignole 29/12/04. Kaya (19) 4B Right -most line and the first you come to. Start on some slightly dubious rock at the bottom of the gully. Things steepen to a final groove. 4B and fixed thread. Simon Middlemass 29/12/04

Pohara: Cathedral Rock

2005-09-09T19:00:00.000+12:00

Joe Dirt (14) The deep cleft chimney on the left of the face. An adventurous, i.e. bold excursion on poor natural pro until an old chain then move right to finish up the last two bolts of Dirty Old Men. Torquil Bennett and Dan Kojetin 12/03