Pohara: Why Wall - Why not?

Mark Brignole on his new route Why not? Why not? (26) 6B 15m If you were confused on where the routes go, there is now another variation to confuse you. Takes the first 3 bolts of Why? then blasts up the headwall to the left of the original route past another 3 bolts. Mark Brignole 25/9/05

Pohara: Why Wall - Animated Suspension

Bruce Dowrick on Animated Suspension Photo: Mark Brignole Animated Suspension (26) 6B 15m Another Rich Turner special.From the first bolt of Why? - just right of the arete route As good as it gets (21), diagonal right, crossing two cruxy roofs then up to the big scoop. Richard Turner 25/8/04.

Pohara: Why Wall - Snatch/Animated Snatch

Climber at the crux roof on Snatch (25) Photo : Mark Brignole. Snatch (25) 7B 15m The route referred to as Project (24) in the downloadable PDF update to Golden Bay Climbs. Why wall is the steep wall left of the Bo-Peep slab bounded by As good as it gets (21) on the left and In your face (21) on the right. Starts up bolts left of In your face (on the right of the wall) then moves left at the first roof. Mark Brignole 26/12/04 Animated Snatch (26) 7B 15m Starts up Snatch for its first 5B then joins the last two bolts of Animated Suspension to include the cruxes of both. Mark Brignole In your face (21) 6B 15m Up the right edge of the Why wall and left of the arete. Start below and left of the Cracking up/Status anxiety ramp. Steep and juggy.Continue slightly left and up to the belay. Phil Castle 18/8/04

Pohara: Bo-Peep Slab

Status Anxiety (18) 7B 15m Supercedes Cracking up (16). Diagonal left leaning crack and ramp on left of the overhanging wall (Bo Peep Slab).Cracking Up was originally a natural pro route but is now bolted (with permission) and extended to give an 'out there' expedition. We recommend having someone second it to clean it. Phil Castle 8/04 Britta Steude on Status Anxiety. Red Tape (24) From near the start of Supercharger, diagonals right. A route with a chequered history on the right of the wall. Originally a project of Lizzard’s, given to Mark B and usurped by Rich T on Mark’s birthday. Rich Turner 30/7/04 Absconsionism (25) 3B Fun, fingery and steep. The short snappy line on far right of the wall. Rich Turner 6/05

Paynes Ford: Creese Wall

Golden Years (14) 5B, 13m At the left hand end of the Creese wall (top of Track 1) is the classic Goodbye Cream Poofters (17). Just right is a chimney and right of this Re-election blues. Start as for Re-election blues in the scoop but instead of moving left continue up the easy arete. Phil Castle 14/6/05

Pohara: Shagadelic Buttress

Access: Drive to Pohara and continue past the Port (Tarakohe) through the tunnel and past the Cathedral Wall. At the top of the hill is the Abel Tasman monument.Take the left (western) entrance track to the Abel Tasman monument. After the zig zags a small track drops down on left (just before a tree root crosses the path). To get to the bottom beach turn left at the bottom of the access track, follow blue markers left then drop down through a small gully with a fixed rope. To get to the top of IMM. (High water access). At the bottom of the rough track follow blue marker tape initially right. A anchor (over edge) allows a rap to the main anchor, clip rope through runners on way down so you can pull through and not drop it into the sea. AT ANYTHING OTHER THAN ABOUT 1.5 hrs EITHER SIDE OF LOW TIDE YOU WILL NEED TO RAP IN FROM THE TOP OF THE CLIFF TO A HANGING BELAY ON INTERNATIONAL MAN OF MYSTERY. Fancy a shag on the beach (22) 6B 14m. Boldly up overhanging scoop on left of the main wall then through bulges. Tricky move right to anchor at top. Mark Brignole 19/2/04 The Shag who spied me (21) 5B 15m Start on diagonal ramp from left to the line that follows the yellow/gray rock boundary on the centre/left of the wall. Crux at the top. Can start via I.M.M also. Phil Castle 8/2/04 International man of mystery (19) 10B 22m From the beach at obvious jug handle and glue in bolt up to the high tide belay then right. Crux low down then lotsa holds. There is another anchor a few metres higher if you want to top out. Simon Middlemass 9/2/04 A date with Felicity Shagwell (18) 7B 20m Pull through steep bulge then move right up easier ground on to a slightly 'out there' finish. . Simon Middlemass 19/2/04 More rad than trad (20) 3B 10m Takes the overhanging wall on the western end of the beach, adjacent to the main wall. Phil Castle 24/6/05 Download PDF from here: http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225

Pohara: The Lair

Rich Turner on second ascent of the White Spider 

A fairly dark and gloomy spot that has the honour of probably being the closest climbs to a cafe that I can think of in NZ. The "Penguin" cafe at Pohara and the nearby store should provide all the sustainance that one requires. The Lair is located about 150m past the "Penguin" when heading to the main climbing areas from Poara near the band rotunda. It is the large block on the hill side of the road. The slab above the road has been climbed but should be left alone due to proximity to the road. 

Redback (16) 6B Starts up the steep wall at the Pohara (west) end of the boulder right next to the road. Follows the arête in the upper sections. Try and not drop rocks on the road. 
Mark Brignole 1/04 

White Spider (25) 6B On the overhanging back wall.Head up the dark gully and it is up on your left. Climb up onto the block opposite (access up rata vine corner on far side). Lean across to clip the first bolt. It seems to work best if you put a long draw on the 2nd bolt and unclip the first. Lunge left to a big hole at the top. Steep with some great moves. 
Mark Brignole 1/04

Pohara: Huntley and Palmers wafer

It is what it is (20) 3B The new, left most, route on the Wafer. Short with good cruxy moves. Mike McManaway 9/9/05

Pohara: Huntley and Palmers wafer area

Harry Pothead gets the philosophers stoned (17) 6B 12m Drive past Cathedral Rock at Pohara towards the Abel Tasman Monument. A small buttress of rock rises from the left and terminates level with the A.T carpark. Climb is on the north side of this rock. Access is down bank on the Huntley and Palmers wafer side (it is about 100m from H& P). slightly steep with big holds. Simon Middlemass 26/12/04

Sandhills Creek

Free Radicals (23) 9B 20m

Past Shadows at Sunset the cliff does a right-hand turn to the left. This is the Amazing Technicolour Dream wall. At the right end of this wall is a left-facing corner. Free Radical starts at the left side of this and goes straight up. Deceptively overhanging (4 to 5 metres). Phil Castle and Mark Brignole 15 Feb 2005 http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/sandhills-creek For more photos of the Sandhills Creek area see Phil Castles pictures here: http://www.cardett.co.nz/crag/index.html

Cobb Valley: New climbs

A downloadable PDF of some of the new climbs done recently up the Cobb Valley, Upper Takaka. Includes Lake Sylvester and Iron Hills. Itis an work in progress http://www.rebirthresoles.co.nz/index.htm

Paynes Ford: Globe Wall

Unforgiven (30) The old Ivan Vostinar project on page 64. A direct line left of the corner to The Killing Time belay and avoiding any holds on The Killing Time Sebastian Loewensteijn 9/1/04 The Killing Time (Extension) (28) 6B From the Killing Time belay head directly right and up to the top of the wall. Originally climbed by Nick Sutter in ‘94 at 26? Subsequently a hold is rumoured to have come off making it harder. Nick Sutter ‘94 Sebastian Loewensteijn 1/04 Monkey Master (28/9) Immediately right of the corner. Start on the wall with a medium cam to protect the start, tackles the crux roof on the left. Way hard if you are short.Continue to the top. Sebastian Loewensteijn 12/04.

Pohara: Trench Town

Walk along the road towards Port Tarakohe from the left end of the Seagrass Wall (see map) about 50 metres. At the huge yellow overhang over the road scramble up the bank and follow the cliff north for approx 100m until you come to a small gully between the cliff and a detached block. There is some interesting red rock and stalactites here.These two climbs are right of the existing two in Golden Bay Climbs. Soul Shakedown Party (22) 4B Right of Oogga Chakka. Start part way up the small gully—boulder to a high first bolt then up to the roof crux. Mark Brignole 29/12/04. Kaya (19) 4B Right -most line and the first you come to. Start on some slightly dubious rock at the bottom of the gully. Things steepen to a final groove. 4B and fixed thread. Simon Middlemass 29/12/04

Pohara: Cathedral Rock

Joe Dirt (14) The deep cleft chimney on the left of the face. An adventurous, i.e. bold excursion on poor natural pro until an old chain then move right to finish up the last two bolts of Dirty Old Men. Torquil Bennett and Dan Kojetin 12/03