Access:
Drive to Pohara and continue past the Port (Tarakohe) through the tunnel and past the Cathedral Wall. At the top of the hill is the Abel Tasman monument.Take the left (western) entrance track to the Abel Tasman monument. After the zig zags a small track drops down on left (just before a tree root crosses the path).
To get to the bottom beach turn left at the bottom of the access track, follow blue markers left then drop down through a small gully with a fixed rope.
To get to the top of IMM. (High water access). At the bottom of the rough track follow blue marker tape initially right. A anchor (over edge) allows a rap to the main anchor, clip rope through runners on way down so you can pull through and not drop it into the sea.
AT ANYTHING OTHER THAN ABOUT 1.5 hrs EITHER SIDE OF LOW TIDE YOU WILL NEED TO RAP IN FROM THE TOP OF THE CLIFF TO A HANGING BELAY ON INTERNATIONAL MAN OF MYSTERY.
Fancy a shag on the beach (22) 6B 14m.
Boldly up overhanging scoop on left of the main wall then through bulges. Tricky move right to anchor at top.
Mark Brignole 19/2/04
The Shag who spied me (21) 5B 15m
Start on diagonal ramp from left to the line that follows the yellow/gray rock boundary on the centre/left of the wall. Crux at the top. Can start via I.M.M also.
Phil Castle 8/2/04
International man of mystery (19) 10B 22m
From the beach at obvious jug handle and glue in bolt up to the high
tide belay then right. Crux low down then lotsa holds. There is another anchor a few metres higher if you want to top out.
Simon Middlemass 9/2/04
A date with Felicity Shagwell (18) 7B 20m
Pull through steep bulge then move right up easier ground on to a slightly 'out there' finish. .
Simon Middlemass 19/2/04
More rad than trad (20) 3B 10m
Takes the overhanging wall on the western end of the beach, adjacent to the main wall.
Phil Castle 24/6/05
Download PDF from here:
http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225
19.9.05
Pohara: Shagadelic Buttress
Access:
Drive to Pohara and continue past the Port (Tarakohe) through the tunnel and past the Cathedral Wall. At the top of the hill is the Abel Tasman monument.Take the left (western) entrance track to the Abel Tasman monument. After the zig zags a small track drops down on left (just before a tree root crosses the path).
To get to the bottom beach turn left at the bottom of the access track, follow blue markers left then drop down through a small gully with a fixed rope.
To get to the top of IMM. (High water access). At the bottom of the rough track follow blue marker tape initially right. A anchor (over edge) allows a rap to the main anchor, clip rope through runners on way down so you can pull through and not drop it into the sea.
AT ANYTHING OTHER THAN ABOUT 1.5 hrs EITHER SIDE OF LOW TIDE YOU WILL NEED TO RAP IN FROM THE TOP OF THE CLIFF TO A HANGING BELAY ON INTERNATIONAL MAN OF MYSTERY.
Fancy a shag on the beach (22) 6B 14m.
Boldly up overhanging scoop on left of the main wall then through bulges. Tricky move right to anchor at top.
Mark Brignole 19/2/04
The Shag who spied me (21) 5B 15m
Start on diagonal ramp from left to the line that follows the yellow/gray rock boundary on the centre/left of the wall. Crux at the top. Can start via I.M.M also.
Phil Castle 8/2/04
International man of mystery (19) 10B 22m
From the beach at obvious jug handle and glue in bolt up to the high
tide belay then right. Crux low down then lotsa holds. There is another anchor a few metres higher if you want to top out.
Simon Middlemass 9/2/04
A date with Felicity Shagwell (18) 7B 20m
Pull through steep bulge then move right up easier ground on to a slightly 'out there' finish. .
Simon Middlemass 19/2/04
More rad than trad (20) 3B 10m
Takes the overhanging wall on the western end of the beach, adjacent to the main wall.
Phil Castle 24/6/05
Download PDF from here:
http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225
